An afternoon hike up South Mountain

With a day to myself and beautiful spring temperatures, South Mountain beckoned. The trail head at Greenbrier State Park is just nine tenths of a mile down the road, so I grabbed my camera, a banana, water, and leatherman tool, and simply turned left at my mailbox,and this is the view that greeted me.


With the mountain in the distance you can just see the buds coming out in the trees of the valley.


As if someone called the prop department for a picturesque well...


...or mule barn, for that matter.


A little further up and this chilly brook of melt water passes beneath the bridge.


The mosses check in early.


Less than a mile from home I get on the trail head for the "Big Red" trail at Greenbirer, headed for the lake and parts beyond.


Rocks? Click on this picture to see why recycling is such a good idea.


Sooner than I expected the trail opened onto a wonderful vista of the lake.


At this point I'm thinking; "Shall I head back now, or keep going?"

I kept going. Spring was everywhere, and I was up for a really good hike.


After checking in on the new shoots in the stream that helps feed the lake, I stopped by the visitor center on the far side of the lake to visit my favorite mountain resident...


The largemouth bass in the aquarium.


Outside again I encountered an oriole nest from last year. Orioles make good use of the tinsel, fishing line, and fruit bags that end up dotting the woods.


Oh no! The dreaded Bartman Hill trail. I wondered what I had in mind. This trail is listed as "strenuous", and how! rocky, steep, and often barely discerneable...this thing really had me huffing and puffing 18 months ago. But what the heck, that was also 20 pounds ago. I think I'll give it a go.


Although the Bartman Hill trail is only .6 of a mile, it's all straight up and the footing is often atrocious. It leads to the Appalachian Trail at almost midpoint (sort of) and a pretty fair view of the valley beyond South Mountain.


Rocky trails like this give testimony to the fact that Robert E. Lee had to leave thousands of his shoeless soldiers behind in Virginia when he made his 1862 campaign into Maryland.

This terrain is mighty hard on the ankles.


As the trail starts to level out (finally!) there's nothing but sky up ahead.


And finally we come to the Appalachian Trail. Hmmmm, Maine or Georgia, decisions, decisions.


I opt for a look across the valley from the top of the mountain , catch my breath, and then start the much quicker descent.


Ending up back at the lake and a short break before continuing home. What a perfect afternoon.

Civil War history, and nature abound in these parts.

Ranger Mannie

Pick 'em up and lay 'em down: The Hike up Nicodemus Heights

What a day! Park programming is back in full swing and the tempo has really picked up. Today, I joined Ranger Brian and about 36 visitors for a two hour ranger-led hike up Nicodemus Heights to view the battlefield from the positions of Stuart's horse artillery. It was, in a word, spectacular.

This is a once-per-year hike is dependent on three key components: the weather, the foliage, and the permission of the property owner (Nicodemus Heights is not park land but privately owned). Brian, and mother nature arranged for all three and it made for a perfect afternoon.

The participants gather and Brian kicks off the hike with background information on the early morning hours of the battle and the devastating effect of Confederate battery fire on the Federal troops approaching, and marching through, the Cornfield.

Hikers trekking uphill toward Nicodemus Heights, in the distance. The cows beat a hasty retreat in the face of our steadfast advance.

The appreciative gasps, and shutter clicks, were audible as the hikers, gaining the top of the Heights, turned around to drink in the magnificent panorama before them.

It was immediately obvious to all that the Heights commanded the approach of Hooker's First Corps. It was also evident that the Rebel guns on Nicodemus Heights were far beyond the reach of the Union long-range guns, and free to rain unimpeded destruction upon the advancing Federals.

A long shot of the Samuel Poffenberger Farm in the distance, the jumping-off point of Hooker's Federals. From the ridge just beyond the barn, Union guns of the First Corps sent counter battery fire toward the Confederate guns on Nicodemus Heights, to little effect, so advantageous was the rebel position.

Brian indicates the barrier the West Woods provided in impeding the fire of the Confederate batteries. The Rebels will have to limber up and relocate to Hauser Ridge, just south of Nicodemus Heights, from which point the Rebel guns will devastate Sedgewick's Division as it emerges from the woods into the muzzles of Confederate guns firing cannister.

What goes up, must come down. From the slopes of Hauser Ridge the hikers will return to their starting point in the Cornfield, for a wrap-up and a round of applause for Ranger Brian.

What a day...

and the season's just beginning.

Ranger Mannie

Cemetery Lodge: Sharpsburg's land-locked lighthouse

One of my favorite buildings, anywhere, is the Paul Pelz designed, lodge within the grounds of the Antietam National Cemetery.

This little high-Victorian gem has presided over the cemetery gates since 1868. An enchanted and very small building, the scale is perfect for its setting.


Its loaded with details like this fine, carved stone, Union shield.



Surmounted by this wonderful crenelated tower, our stone and stick-style edifice today serves as departmental offices for Antietam National Battlefield.

Dripping with gingerbread, the downside of this wonderful structure may be the amount of maintainence that is required for its continued upkeep.


There's a lot of original wood, like these ornamental ribs supporting the awning of the front entryway. This is typical of a Pelz design.


What the heck is this? Photographed here, completely out of context is...


a rain spout, pictured here in context. Hmmm... seems to me I must have been in an unusual position to record the previous image. Patience, all will be revealed.


The inviting entry to the lodge beckons. C'mon!

Recently, I asked my friend and colleague, Ranger Keith, if he'd take me through the lodge, and his answer was typical of the answers that I get from rangers at this park:

"Ahh, Christie, my car's in the shop, can I have a lift home?"
"Hey Brian, would you take me up to Nickodemus Heights?"
"Alann, could you fix me up with a picture of the original 90th PA monument?"

Like all of the above Keith gave me an enthusiastic "Yes".

So, here we go, through the front door of the lodge.



The inside of the entryway.

By the way, a sordid love-triangle murder occured in this very spot, way back when the park was still administered by the War Department...but that's another story for another time.


Check out the gorgeous Fireplace surround, which seems to be made of bronze.


One of the tower's ocular windows overlooks the administration building at the front of the cemetery.

This tower view is of the pergola/rostrum, site of all memorial day addresses since the beginning of that holiday right here in Sharpsburg (as ladybug looks on).

Note the distortion through the rippled glass.


The stairs up the tower start narrow...


and seem to get even more so.


Finally, we get to the iron spiral staircase and ranger Keith struggles to bull open the heavy trapdoor through the top of the tower.


A quick look back down the spiral staircase before pausing...

to catch our breath and survey just exactly where we are.



Looking down at the compound angles of the slate roof, and beyond to...


The Maryland monument in the far distance, between the pine trees. Click on this pic for a larger view...heck, click on all of them.


And turning south, we are greeted by the steady presence of "old Simon, towering, as always, above the bivouac of the dead that is Antietam National Cemetery.


And the "landlocked lighthouse" reference?

Seems that Paul Pelz, architect of this fine little building, the Smithsonian castle, and the Library of Congress building, was also a prolific designer of...

lighthouses.

Like this one at http://www.ebls.org/book/alight.htm

Now, every morning when I drive into Sharpsburg from Boonsboro I pass this lovely little lodge and think...


"lighthouse".


I think you might too.


Come see the light, just outside of Sharpsburg.

Ranger Mannie

Cross-bloggial pollenation (click here)

Many thanks, and a tip of the tin lid, to fellow ACW blogger Andrew Wagenhoffer of Civil War Books and Authors for sending me the pic below.

Its gratifying to know that ACW folks are checking out my helmet blog (http://combathelmets.blogspot.com/). I'll use this photo in a future posting, Thanks again Drew.




By the way, its a very rare "experimental helmet No. 8" manufactured in 1918 by the Ford Motor Company for trial by the U.S. Army.

Keep your heads down!

Mannie

Join the Ranger!

I love this time of year. The Ranger-led tour season begins again at Antietam National Battlefield this Weekend.

Join me on Saturday at 1:30 for the first two-hour tour of the new season.

Wear sturdy shoes!

Ranger Mannie

Roulette Farm on the eve of Spring

Yesterday I had the opportunity to go down to the historic Roulete Farm do make some sketches for the new natural history teacher's packet. The recent snowfall, which actually closed the park last Thursday, was well into a thaw by yesterday morning.

Following the sound of the gurgling water...

the Roulette spring was like a silver ribbon in the melting snow. The grass at the water's edge is already surprisingly green.


Other plants seem indifferent to the winter conditions,

like the lichens on the weathered stone wall bordering the farm.




The Roulette nature trail is used by scout troops or science teachers who bring school groups to the park. Many visitors overlook this gem and the vistas that this nice hike provides.



The next time you come to the park, take that long walk down the Roulette farm lane. Enjoy the rewards of this brisk walk, the hidden battlefield vistas, the magnificent sycamore trees that tower over the Roulette pond, and the benefits of a little exercise.

The hike will be good for your heart as well as your soul.




Here's hoping that Spring will stick around this time...

just north of Sharpsburg.

Ranger Mannie

Is it just me...?

I can't seem to upload photos. For the past 24 hours the Blogger "upload" function seems to be on the fritz.

Not good for a visual guy.

Mannie

Making my daily bread (part three): back to subbing

Now, believe me, I'm not complaining...I'm just saying, you know?

I, like 90% of the rangers in the NPS, am a seasonal ranger. That means that I work for six months during a year. In that other six months we all have to find another way to meet the grocery bills and house payments. For me, that way is substitute teaching.

I substitute teach in the park's off-season (Winter and early spring) and during the summers I'm totally working at the battlefield.

What could be more perfect?

Have I mentioned that subbing "sucks"?

Again, I'm not complaining. All I have to do is work six months at a job that I don't like to support those other six months of working at a job that I absolutely love.

As my good friend Steve (http://www.oldthirdmichigan.org/) Soper sez:

"Life is full of trade-offs".

Becoming stronger every day.

Ranger Mannie, or "Mister G" to the kids at Greenbrier Elementary today

Suddenly, winter returned.

On Wednesday, the valley received three inches of snow. Just when we all thought that spring had arrived at the battlefield, winter came a calling. As I drove into the park Thursday morning I was reminded of why I never leave the house without my camera. The valley was frosted with what the locals call "ice fog" or "fog ice". Of the may beautiful mornings that I've experienced in the Antietam Creek Valley this was possibly the most beautiful of all.

It was an ephemeral experience, I knew that I had a window of perhaps thirty minutes to capture these images before the sun caused all of the frosting to melt away.

Here is your battlefield, cold, sparkling, and beautiful.
The Newcomer barn just east of Sharpsburg.

Beyond the ornamental gates of the National Cemetery the snow was as yet unmarked by any tracks, save for the squirrels.

Old Simon presides, as always, above the bivouac of the dead on this bright and frosty morning.

It's not often that one can catch Simon with snow on his uniform.

From the wall behind the National Cemetery we are presented with a panorama that includes the intrusion of the jet traffic to and from Washington D.C.

As we advance beyond the cemetery we find this frigid twelve-pounder, which harassed the advance of Burnside's Ninth Corps.

And down in the frosty valley we catch a glimpse of Rodman Avenue, namesake of that most noble and conflicted of Quakers; Issac Peace Rodman, who cast aside his pacifist beliefs to defend his nation, and lose his life, just outside of Sharpsburg.

Each crystal of ice stands at attention, this phenomonen will last about a half hour before the sun melts it all away.

The four-gun battery is dazzling.

The Maryland Monument catches my attention in the early sunlight. It's difficult to frame up a shot in my viewfinder as everything is so blindingly brilliant

Such a contrast, such a morning, such a place.

The New York monument seems to pop into focus against the blue sky.

And, as usual, I find myself drawn to the Maryland monument, residing in the prettiest corner of this most beautiful National Park.

Come visit, before the thaw,

Ranger Mannie

A study in contrasts: part 2.

Three-inch ordnance rifle: very accurate



Gun depicted on Gettysburg tour bus: not very accurate


Questions?

Ranger story

Yesterday morning I was taking my regular pre-opening walk around the battlefield. I'd done a couple of miles and I decided to hike down the Roulette Farm trail from the Mumma farmstead. After pausing to give an early morning greeting the Mumma sheep (who were quite unresponsive) I turned overland following the trail toward the Roulette farm. Two hundred yards down the trail I was startled by something I'd heard of but had not seen until that morning.

To my left a deer was thrashing in fear, it's right rear hoof caught in the the upper strand of wire in the fence. This deer, a yearling, was completely vulnerable and totally freaked by my approach. I made what ever soothing sounds I could as I examined the situation. Try as I might, without a wire cutter, I couldn't extricate that deer. Now, I didn't press the issue, a prey animal is a prey animal, and deer or rabbit, they will thrash in a frenzy to get away. Deer usually pull so hard in their panic that they dislocate their leg in a situation like this. I backed off after a hasty assessment of the situation and made tracks back to the visitor's center which was just opening for the morning. Unlocking the front door I made a beeline to the telephone. "What's up?" ranger Brian asked. I told him what I had encountered as I dialed the park law enforcement number. Brian said "those situations don't usually end well". Sounds ominous but it's true.

I reached a Natural Resources ranger who said she'd send someone right out. I continued on to the Smith house to change into my uniform and start my ranger day.

Returning to the Visitor's Center twenty minutes later I made my way past the main counter. Ranger Christie told me that Natural Resources called with good news - a ranger with a wire cutters showed up and, after two clips, the deer, freaked but uninjured, bounded away into the brush.

What I'm left with is this observation: for as large as a deer is, and they get pretty big, the prey mentality in a deer is just as frantic and as urgent as it is in a rabbit. It was sobering to come face to face with another animal that probably outweighed me and was stronger than me, and see that it was in terror for its life, because of me.

Yesterday was a happy ending, but every day in nature is a crap shoot.

Today a call came in from a park neighbor about a shattered deer that had been hit by a car and was struggling to drag itself toward cover. " Would you please send a ranger to put it out of it's misery!" the caller pleaded. Five minutes later, a law enforcement ranger was on the scene.

Sometimes a wire cutter will solve the problem, this was not one of those times. The ranger acted quickly, efficiently, and in a very humane manner. And that deer no longer suffers.

Public lands management is more than campfire talks, hikes, and smiling rangers that always (always) wave when you drive by.

Life's pretty real here, in your National Park, just north of Sharpsburg.

Ranger Mannie

Ranger Mannie's message to middle schoolers.

Please flush.


Thank you